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 Zapper  Zapping régulaire et à fréquences  Article Baklayan  Différence avec FG  Construir un zapper
How to build a zapper

Being able to kill your bacteria and other invaders with electricity becomes much more of a panacea when you can do it all in three 7 minute sessions. No need to single out specific frequencies or to sweep through a range of frequencies one kHz at a time. No matter what frequency it is set at (within reason), it kills lange and small invaders: flukes, roundworms, mites, bacteria, viruses and fungi. It kills them all at once, in 7 minutes, even at 5 volts.
How does it work? I suppose that a positive voltage applied anywhere on the body attracts negatively charged things such as bacteria. Perhaps the battery voltage tugs at them, pulling them out of their locations in the cell doorways (called conductance channels). But doorways can be negatively charged too. Does the voltage tug at them so they disgorge any bacteria stuck in them? How would the positive voltage act to kill a lanre parasite like a fluke? None of these questions can be answered yet.
Other fascinating possibilities are that the intermittent positive voltage interferes with electron flow in some key metabolic route, or straightens out the ATP molecule disallowing its breakdown. Such biological questions could be answered by studying the effects of positive frequencies on bacteria in a lab.
The most important question, of course, is whether there is a harmful effect on you. I have seen no effects on blood pressure, mental alertness, or body temperatures. It has never produced pain, although it has often stopped pain instantly. This does not prove its safety. Even knowing that the voltage comes from a small 9 volt battery does not prove safety, although it is reassuring. The clotting of red blood cells, platelet aggregation and functions that depend on surface charges on cells need to be investigated. But not before you can use it. Your safety lies in the short period of exposure that is necessary. Viruses and bacteria disappear in 3 minutes; damaged tapeworm stages, flukes, roundworms in 5; and mites in 7. One need not go beyond this time, although no bad effects have been seen at any length of treatment.
The first seven minute zapping is followed by an intermission, lasting 20 to 30 minutes. During this time, bacteria and viruses are released from the dying parasites and start to invade you instead.
The second seven minute session is intended to kill these newly released viruses and bacteria. If you omit it, you could catch a cold, sore throat or something else immediately. Again, viruses are released from the dying bacteria. The third session kills the last viruses released.
Do not zap if you are pregnant or wearing a pacemaker!
These situations have not been explored yet. Don't do these experiments yourself. Children as young as 8 months have been zapped with no noticeable ill effects. For them, you should weigh the possible benefits against the unknown risks.
That is all there is to it. Almost all. The zapping current does not reach deep into the eyeball or testicle or bowel contents. It does not reach into your gallstones, or into your living cells where Herpes virus lies latent or Candida fungus extends its fingers. To reach deeper, the herbal parasite program must be added to the zapper treatment.
Killing The Surviving Pathogens
The interior of gallstones may house parasites inaccessible to the zapping. Eliminate this source of reinfection by flushing them out with liver cleanses. Use ozonated oil in the Liver Cleanse for greater effectiveness.
Although the center of the bowel contents is often unaffected, which lets bowel bacteria like Shigella, Escherichia coli (E. coli) and parasite stages survive, sometimes it is nearly all sterilized by zapping. This results in considerable shrinkage of the bowel movement. Eliminate remaining parasites and bacteria with a single dose (2 tsp.) of Black Walnut Hull Tincture, Extra Strength.
The zapper current travels mainly along the intestinal wall where bacteria are scurrying to cross over into your body. Even “good” bacteria are no longer good when they are crossing the wall.
So zapping kills mostly “bad” bacteria. The good news is that perfect bowel habits often result in a few days. Evidently, the good bacteria are benefited by killing the invasive ones. Homemade yogurt and buttermilk (see Recipes) are especially good at recolonizing the bowel. But it does not seem wise to culture yourself with special commercial preparations which are often polluted and risk getting parasite stages again when you can become normal so soon anyway. Besides, acidophilus bacteria are able to change RNA into DNA and are often found in a growing tumor!
When a large number of parasites, bacteria and viruses are killed, it can leave you fatigued. Try to give yourself a lowstress day after your initial zapping. But there are no significant side effects. I believe this is due to the second and third zapping which mops up bacteria and viruses that would otherwise be able to go on a feeding frenzy with so much dead prey available.
Remember, too, that newly killed large parasites, like Ascaris worms and tapeworm larvae, still house their eggs that remain quite alive, unreachable by zapper current or herbs. Only cysteine and ozonated oil can reach them before they are set free in your body (see the Mop Up resp. tapeworm and Ascaris program). To build your zapper you may take this list of components to any electronics store (Radio Shack part numbers are given for convenience).

Zapper schematic

Zapper Parts List
Please note that some of the part numbers may have changed. But the parts are all very basic so you will easily find another part that will work. According to readers' feedback, the 8 pin wire-wrapping socket is no longer available, you can just buy a larger one (e.g. 16 pin) and cut it to fit.
Item  Radio Shack Catalog Number
Large shoe box  
9 volt battery  
9 volt battery clips  270-325 (set of 5, you need 1)
On/Off toggle switch  275-624A micro mini toggle switch
1 K-Ohm resistor  271-1321 (set of 5, you need 2)
3.9 K-Ohm resistor  271-1123 (set of 2, you need 2)
low-current red LED  276-044
[item has been discontinued, according to customers possible replacement is LED 276-209 or 900-1564]
.0047 uF capacitor  272-130 (set of 2, you need 1)
.01 uF capacitor  272-1065 (set of 2, you need 1)
555 CMOS timer chip  276-1723 (set of 2, you need 1)
8 pin wire-wrapping socket for the chip  276-1988 (set of 2, you need 1)
[customers tell us the new catalog number is 276-1995A]
short (12”) alligator clip leads  any electronics shop, get 6
Microclip test jumpers  278-017 (you need 2 packages of 2)
2 bolts, about 1/8” diameter, 2” long, with 4 nuts and 4 washers  hardware store
2 copper pipes, ¾” diameter, 4” long  hardware store
sharp knife, pin, long-nose pliers  
Hints for absolute novices: Don't let unusual vocabulary deter you. A “lead” is just a piece of wire used to make connections. Label components as you remove them from the package. Practice using the microclips. If the metal ends are L-shaped bend them into a U with the long-nose pliers so they grab better. Chips and chip holders are very fragile. It is wise to purchase an extra of each in case you break the connections.

Assembling The Zapper
1. You will be using the lid of the shoe box to mount the components. Save the box to enclose the finished project.
2. Diagram 1 Pierce two holes near the ends of the lid. Enlarge the holes with a pen or pencil until the bolts would fit through. Mount the bolts on the outside about half way through the holes so there is a washer and nut holding it in place on both sides. Tighten. Label one hole "grounding bolt" on the inside and outside.
3. Mount the 555 chip in the wire wrap socket. Find the "top end" of the chip by searching the outside surface carefully for a cookie-shaped bite or hole taken out of it. Align the chip with the socket and very gently squeeze the pins of the chip into the socket until they click in place.
4. Diagram 2 Make 8 pinholes to fit the wire wrap socket. Enlarge them slightly with a sharp pencil. Mount it on the outside. Write in the numbers of the pins (connections) on both the outside and inside, starting with number one to the left of the "cookie bite" as seen from outside. After number 4, cross over to number 5 and continue. Number 8 will be across from number 1.
5. Diagram 3 Pierce two holes ½ inch apart very near to pins 5, 6, 7, and 8. They should be less than 1/8 inch away. (Or, one end of each component can share a hole with the 555 chip). Mount the .01 uF capacitor near pin 5 on the outside. On the inside connect pin 5 to one end of this capacitor by simply twisting them together. Loop the capacitor wire around the pin first; then twist with the longnose pliers until you have made a tight connection. Bend the other wire from the capacitor flat against the inside of the shoe box lid. Label it .01 on the outside and inside. Mount the .0047 uF capacitor near pin 6. On the inside twist the capacitor wire around the pin. Flatten the wire from the other end and label it .0047. Mount the 3.9 K-Ohm resistor near pin 7, connecting it on the inside to the pin. Flatten the wire on the other end and label it 3.9. Mount the 1 K-Ohm resistor and connect it similarly to pin 8 and label it 1K.
6. Diagram 4 Pierce two holes ½ inch apart next to pin 3 (again, you can share the hole for pin 3 if you wish), in the direction of the bolt. Mount the other 1 K-Ohm resistor and label inside and outside. Twist the connections together and flatten the remaining wire. This resistor protects the circuit if you should accidentally short the terminals. Mount the 3.9 K-Ohm resistor downward. One end can go in the same hole as the 1K resistor near pin 3. Twist that end around pin 3 which already has the 1K resistor attached to it. Flatten the far end. Label.
7. Diagram 5 Next to the 3.9 K-Ohm resistor pierce two holes ¼ inch apart for the LED. Notice that the LED has a positive and negative connection. The longer wire is the anode (positive). Mount the LED on the outside and bend back the wires, labeling them + and – on the inside.
8. Near the top pierce a hole for the toggle switch. Enlarge it until the shaft fits through from the inside. Remove nut and washer from switch before mounting. You may need to trim away some paper with a serrated knife before replacing washer and nut on the outside. Tighten.
9. Next to the switch pierce two holes for the wires from the battery holder and poke them through. Attach the battery and tape it to the outside.

Now to Connect Everything
First, make holes at the corners of the lid with a pencil. Slit each corner to the hole. They will accommodate extra loops of wire that you get from using the clip leads to make connections. After each connection gently tack away the excess wire.
1. Twist the free ends of the two capacitors (.01 and .0047) together. Connect this to the grounding bolt using an alligator clip.
2. Diagram 6 Bend the top ends of pin 2 and pin 6 (which already has a connection) inward towards each other in an L shape. Catch them both with an alligator clip and attach the other end of the alligator clip to the free end of the 3.9 K-Ohm resistor by pin 7.
3. Using an alligator clip connect pin 7 to the free end of the 1 K-Ohm resistor attached to pin 8.
4. Using two microclips connect pin 8 to one end of the switch, and pin 4 to the same end of the switch. (Put one hook inside the hole and the other hook around the whole connection. Check to make sure they are securely connected.)
5. Use an alligator clip to connect the free end of the other 1 K-Ohm resistor (by pin 3) to the bolt.
6. Twist the free end of the 3.9 K-Ohm resistor around the plus end of the LED. Connect the minus end of the LED to the grounding bolt using an alligator clip.
7. Connect pin number 1 on the chip to the grounding bolt with an alligator clip.
8. Attach an alligator clip to the outside of one of the bolts. Attach the other end to a handhold (copper pipe). Do the same for the other bolt and handhold.
9. Connect the minus end of the battery (black wire) to the grounding bolt with an alligator clip.
10. Connect the plus end of the battery (red wire) to the free end of the switch using a microclip lead. If the LED lights up you know the switch is ON. If it does not, flip the switch and see if the LED lights. Label the switch clearly. If you cannot get the LED to light in either switch position, you must double-check all of your connections, and make sure you have a fresh battery.
11. Finally replace the lid on the box, loosely, and slip a couple of rubber bands around the box to keep it securely shut.
12. Wrap handholds in one layer of wet paper towel before using. Grasp securely and turn the switch on to zap. I have not detected the copper in the handholds penetrating the skin. Perhaps this is due to the high frequency circuit used. Non copper handholds are now available from commercial providers.
• Optional: measure the frequency of your zapper by connecting an oscilloscope or frequency counter to the handholds. Any electronics shop can do this. It should read between 20 and 40 kHz.
• Optional: measure the voltage output by connecting it to an oscilloscope. It should be about 7 to 8 volts.
• Optional: measure the current that flows through you when you are getting zapped. You will need a 1 K-Ohm resistor and oscilloscope. Connect the grounding bolt on the zapper to one end of the resistor. Connect the other end of the resistor to a handhold. (Adding this resistor to the circuit decreases the current slightly, but not significantly.) The other handhold is attached to the other bolt. Connect the scope ground wire to one end of the resistor. Connect the scope probe to the other end of the resistor. Turn the zapper ON and grasp the handholds. Read the voltage on the scope. It will read about 3.5 volts. Calculate current by dividing voltage by resistance. 3.5 volts divided by 1 K-Ohm is 3.5 ma (milliamperes).

Testing The Zapper
Trying the zapper on an illness to see "if it works" is not useful. Your symptoms may be due to a non-parasite. Or you may reinfect within hours of zapping. The best way to test your device is to find a few invaders that you currently have with the Syncrometer. This gives you a starting point. Then zap yourself. After the triple zapping, none of these invaders should be present.
(From: "The Cure for all Cancers", p.531ff.; http://Copyrightnotice)
One of our customers wrote to us: "I've been building zappers for about 4 years and build them for people that want one. I solder mine but here is a wire wrap source for you: Mouser Electronics( got catalog 612--575-293308, 1-.56, 10-.48, 100-.40, 500-.35 each page 513. They offer at least 3 -8pin wirewrap. mouser is the easiest to deal with and is set up to sell you 1 or 1000's and is the least hassle. I would imagine that you could build about 20 zappers for what 4 or 5 from radio shack parts would cost. Thankyou for this wonderful tech."

Appareils et techniques
by successteam
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